This past week my brother Jeremy was in town from Phoenix, affording an opportunity to explore parts of the region that we otherwise would not be likely to visit. And so on Saturday we found ourselves up in Sonoma County, for a visit to the little town of Healdsburg, where Pi Wen and I enjoyed wine, cheese, and crackers as Jeremy observed our upscale stylings with bemusement.
Healdsburg is in Sonoma County, Northern California's slice of wine country that has not (yet) been overly commercialized like the Napa Valley. Lunch was also in Sonoma, just over the line from Marin, at Blu in Petaluma. Sonoma is definitely part of the nine county Bay Area region, but it feels a world away from San Francisco or Alameda counties.
SF and Alameda are the "inner core" of the region. San Francisco is the region's anchor, culturally if not economically. Oakland and Berkeley (both in Alameda) are major cities in their own right, within easy proximity to SF. Unsurprisingly, as you get further into Alameda or the other counties things feel more suburban.
Is that such a bad thing? Nicholas Lemann says no, using the New York metropolitan region as his example. In the most recent issue of the New Yorker, Lemann describes his family's move from Manhattan to Pelham (a Westchester County suburb) and then back to Manhattan. Despite everyone in Pelham claiming they'd only left the city because of the kids, the truth was that most people liked it. The pace was slower, kids could play in the street, and it was easier to know your neighbors. And the responsibiliity of raising kids in the city would have made many of the joys of city life--the late nights, the dining at obscure and fabulous restaurants--impossible anyway.
And so...there is a place for the suburbs. They are not just the land of white flight and mindless conformity. As Lemann also points out, the sharp categories we tend to draw between cities and suburbs--high rise living in the cities, single family homes in the burbs--fail to withstand scrutiny. Tbis is true for Pi Wen and myself, in our current home of Oakland. On one hand, Oakland is a city of 400,000 people. On the other hand, it's a suburb of San Francisco (sort of, as the two cities don't touch.) Our neighborhood contains a mixture of apartment buildings and single family homes. You can easily walk to restaurants and shops on Piedmont Avenue, which is a quintessentially urban experience. And yet, it is far easier to drive to do errands like grocery shopping, which places us in the burbs. Lemann argues that there is a continuum between urban and suburban rather than a sharp dichotomy, and I agree.
In my New York days I glorified the urban (even though I enjoyed occasional excursions to Long Island or Westchester.) Manhattan was the epicenter, the beating heart of all thriving civilization. I loved the jostling, the balletic grace required to walk through a crowded subway station, and the fact that I could walk across midtown after work to catch a show on and then--if I' had the stamina--actually walk home. Every time I'm back I feel that jolt of New York energy again, and I still know the subway routes in my bones.
And yet, now I'm feeling more pastoral. My cup at the Flying Goat Coffee in Healdsburg was pretty damn awesome the other day, even if it required a long drive to obtain it. Up in Healdsburg you could "feel yourself think," as they say. It doesn't hurt that the town has a famous jazz festival...talk about blending urban and suburban. We'll definitely take that in next year, and my guess is we'll return to Healdsburg sooner than that.
Perhaps I'm just romanticizing the valley life and would quickly grow bored if we actually lived there. I do feel bad about the carbon footprint of all that driving, leavened with apathy that car-dependence seems unlikely to end anytime soon. At least we drove there in a Prius.
New York was when I grew to embrace the urban, and perhaps now is the time to enjoy the pleasures of the far-out burbs. Life's too short to constrain yourself to the rigors of living in just one type of place.
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