Helen and I have become big fans of travel in Latin America: Argentina in 2o05; Brazil in 2006; and now Mexico in 2007. Apparently we like South America better than the North, because both Brazil and Argentina were more engaging than our recent journey to Mexico City.
This doesn't mean that we didn't have a great time, despite Helen's sunburn and mild altitude sickness in the first part of the trip. Mexico City is one of the world's highest capital cities, and it takes some getting used to.
The city has a reputation for being extraordinarily dangerous. We never experienced any danger, even though we rode the supposedly fearsome subways frequently. We weren't (too) foolish, of course; the neighborhood of Tepito is particularly problematic, so we never went there. And we dressed casually, which made us less likely targets than obviously wealthy people who travel by car and with bodyguards. Plus, we never hailed a taxi on the street.
Because we felt safe, we roamed widely. It seemed that everywhere we wanted to go was at least two subway transfers from where we were; these were epic transfers, in many cases. By the last day, I was finally not so grumpy about this. Helen always took it in stride. At a cost of 2 pesos (18 cents) per ride, the subway was an incredible bargain.
But all bargains have a price. In the Mexico City subway, that price includes listening to loud music on boomboxes from people who want to sell you cheap CDs. Or Trident bubble gum. Or crossword puzzle books. Whenever a subway car did not offer cacophonous entrepreneurship, it felt like a moment of grace.
New York's subways have sales pitches too--usually from kids selling candy, who "aren't using the money for no basketball team, but just want to stay out of trouble." But in Mexico City this was relentless, and much more aggressive than anything we saw in Brazil or Argentina.
After we got off the subway, my spirits improved. There certainly was a lot to see. On our first full day in town, we visited the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe; Helen took an amazing photo of devout parishioners crawling to the cathedral.
We went from the spiritual to the low brow in less than 48 hours. Friday night we attended lucha libre (the Mexican version of professional wrestling) at the Arena Mexico. It's similar to the American model, except that almost all of the competitors wear masks. And the lovely ladies at ringside gyrate on cue, whenever the camera takes an interest.
My favorite times were outside the city. On Thursday we ventured to the lovely market town of Tepoztlan, which is the mythical birthplace of the god Quetzalcoatl and thus a strong reminder of pre-Hispanic Mexican civilization. On Friday we attempted to climb the ancient pyramids at Teotihuacan--another powerful indication of Mexico's ancient heritage.
Saturday was our last full day in town, and we decided to canoe down the ancient canals at Xochimilco. This is a venerable tradition for Mexico City's families; mariachi bands cruise the canal with you. But despite the festive vibe, our experience left a bitter taste in my mouth. The smooth-talking salesman fleeced us of four times the legal rate for our trip, a fact that we discovered after consulting our guidebook later. This was infuriating, but a lesson learned.
Other interesting notes: The anthropology museum in Chapultepec Park is world-class, and Mexico City has a fixation (still) on Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.
Why is Mexico City third in the list? Because the Brazilians are friendlier, and Buenos Aires has a cosmopolitan panache that leaves a warm glow two years later. But this is third in a strong list, so I certainly recommend a visit if you get the chance and have the interest.
The pictures below are a sample of Helen's excellent work, both in photography and in musicianship. Visit here for the full set, and click on "View as a Slideshow" to read the captions.


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